Tag Archives: california

Wine Blends: For Better or For Worse?

The first time someone asked me at one of my wine tasting events why blends were lower quality than single varietal wines, I was taken by surprise. It never occurred to me at the time that this perception even existed. After all, some of my favorite wines, and some of the most prestigious wines in the world, are blends.

After giving it some more thought, I realized this may be more a “New World” perception. After all, some of the most highly reputed wines from the U.S. are labeled as single varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, etc.. Meanwhile, blends are relegated to a small section of the wine shop labeled with the generic term “Blends” and some may not even have grape varieties listed on the label. Many of those wines are also inexpensive mass market labels – Apothic Red, 19 Crimes, etc.

Classic Blends

On the other hand, in classic wine countries in the Old World, they embrace blends.

  • Bordeaux, France: Reds are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and/or Malbec; whites are blends of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and/or Muscadelle.
  • Southern Rhone, France: Reds are blends of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and/or more than a dozen other grape varieties; whites are blends of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Rousanne, and/or many others.
  • Champagne, France: Often blends of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with some Pinot Meunier; and/or blends of vintages.
  • Rioja, Spain: Blends of Tempranillo with Graciano, Mazuelo and other varietals.
  • Priorat, Spain: Blends of Grenache and Carignan with other varietals.
  • Toscana & Bogheri, Italy: “Super Tuscans” are blends of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot, other varietals

There are many more high quality wine blends on the market than you may realize!

What many don’t know is that many wines in the U.S. that are labeled as single varietals are actually blends. We have very few wine laws in the U.S., but one of the major ones says that only 75% of a grape variety is required to label a wine as a single varietal. So your bottle of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon may very well be a Bordeaux style blend with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and/or Petit Verdot included. Your California Pinot Noir may have a little Syrah or Merlot added for deeper color. Your Zinfandel may be a field blend where old Zinfandel vines were planted with a mix of other varieties and they’re all picked and vinified at the same time.

An exception to the 75% rule is Willamette Valley, Oregon, which set a stricter law for Pinot Noir that 90% of grapes must be Pinot Noir to be labeled as such.

Why are wines blended?

When we look at the myriad of reasons why a winemaker would blend a wine, the result can be a wine of higher quality and complexity than single varietals, but can also be an inexpensive mass market wine.

  1. Balance: Grapes may be blended to create a more balanced, higher quality wine. For example, grapes from warmer areas that have higher sugar and flavor levels may be blended with grapes from cooler areas that bring balancing acidity.
  2. Complexity: Blending can bring together different characteristics that add complexity of flavors and aromas to make a more interesting and higher quality wine.
  3. Consistency: Winemakers may try to minimize bottle or vintage variation by blending wines to achieve a specific profile year over year. This is usually done by producers of inexpensive high-volume wines, but is also done with most Sherries and Champagnes.
  4. Style: Winemakers blend to achieve a desired style. For example, many big label Champagnes (e.g., Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label, Moet & Chandon Imperial, etc.) are designed in a “house style” to achieve a specific flavor profile each year. Some rosés are a blend of red and white grapes to give the winemaker greater control over the final color and flavor profile.
  5. Price: To be profitable and reduce costs, some winemakers may blend in a portion of less expensive grapes. In places like the U.S., if it’s less than 25% of the blend, these grapes don’t even need to be identified on the label. For example, cheaper Semillon may be added to reduce the price of Chardonnay wines.
  6. Volume: Producers of high volumes wines, or holders of very small vineyards, may need to purchase wine or grapes from others and blend them together to increase the volume of their production.
  7. Minimize faults: It is possible that wines will be blended to hide faults. For example, if one barrel became slightly oxidized, it may be blended with larger volumes of good wine until that oxidized character is diluted.

What types of blends are there?

When most people think about blends, they assume it only means blending different grape varieties together. In fact, there are several other ways to create a blend:

  1. Grapes from different locations (vineyards, regions, countries)
  2. Grapes, juice or wine purchased from different growers or businesses
  3. Wines from different vintages (very common with Champagne, Sherry, etc.)
  4. Wines that have been treated differently in the winery (e.g. wines aged in oak blended with wines made in stainless steel or concrete)
  5. Wines that have been treated the same in the winery, but are stored in different vessels (e.g. wines stored in small barrels must be blended together before bottling to make up required volume)

Recommendations:

So the next time you’re concerned that your blend is lower quality, think again. Shy away from the inexpensive mass market brands and veer toward the classics and more reputable producers:

  • Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc ($18)
  • Daou Pessimist ($22)
  • Bodegas LAN Gran Reserva Rioja ($25)
  • Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat ($26)
  • Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Sparkling Wine ($26)
  • Chateau de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone Coudoulet de Beaucastel ($28)

Old Vines: Better Quality or Marketing Hype?

At times you will see a wine label boasting the term, “Old Vines” or in France, “vieilles vignes”. It promptly begs a number of questions: How old is “old”? Does it mean the wine is better quality because the vines are old? What difference does the age of the vine make?

Although consumers may perceive this term to indicate a higher quality wine, “Old Vines” is essentially a marketing term. It is not a legally protected labeling term anywhere in the world. This means that anyone can use it on any wine they want without needing to meet any specific vine age requirements at all. The vines may be 20 years old, 100 years old, or may even be brand new and only have a small amount of old vine wine blended in.

That is not to say it is an entirely untrustworthy term. I would always suggest checking the producer’s website to see what they mean by their use of “Old Vines” on the label. For example, one of my favorite Old Vine producers, Bedrock Wine Co., explains that their Bedrock Heritage Wine is from 120-year-old vines. However, Bota Box sells an Old Vine Zinfandel and you won’t find any information at all on their website about vine age.

Lifespan of a Vine

When a new vine is planted, it will take up to five years until that vine produces sufficient quality fruit for wine production. After 20-30 years, a vine begins its decline and starts producing lower yields of fruit. At this point, many growers will replace these vines in an effort to maintain wine production levels. It also gives growers an opportunity to change vineyard layouts, plant different grapes, and otherwise take advantage of new vineyard technology or meet changing market demands. That’s all assuming the vine lives this long and doesn’t succumb earlier to pests, disease, drought, extreme weather events, or other hazards.

For these reasons, not all wines are made from Old Vines. It is even rarer to find old vines that are a century or more old. This is because vineyard regions around the world were decimated in the late 1800s/early 1900s by an infestion of a root louse called phylloxera that feasted on vine roots, killing them swiftly. Only a handful of places in the world escaped the devastation, either through quarantine or inhospitable sandy soils. The only solution was to replant vineyards everywhere with European grape vines grated onto American rootstocks immune to phylloxera.

However, vines have the ability to live a very long life. In fact, the oldest still-producing grapevine in the world can be found in Slovenia. It is a whopping 400 years old, and was planted at the end of the Middle Ages.

Are Old Vines Better?

It is widely believed that Old Vines produce higher quality fruit and therefore better wines. Some would argue it’s a matter of survival of the fittest – old vines are the hardiest, healthiest and best quality producers in the vineyard, so they weren’t pulled.

While likely true, these vines produce better quality fruit because they are old. As a vine ages, the canopy (leaves) become thinner, allowing more sunlight exposure to the fruit for ripening. Old vines also produces less fruit. Lower fruit yields per vine means the vine can focus its energy on ripening fewer bunches. Those bunches become more concentrated and flavorful, producing better wines.

Wine from Old Vines is generally described as having excellent fruit concentration with soft tannins and high acid

Why is there so much Old Vine Zinfandel?

Old vines can be of just about any grape variety. However, we usually see old vine Zinfandel in California based on the state’s history. California is a fairly young wine producing region. Varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay were only planted in the last few decades. However, Zinfandel was brought into the state during the Gold Rush and planted everywhere. At one time, it was the most widely planted grape variety in the state.

There are plenty of places where vineyards had essentially been abandoned during Prohibition because it was too costly to pull them and replant with other agriculture. That left a ton of Zinfandel vines in the ground that were “rediscovered” in more recent decades as old vines. In fact, there is so much old vine Zinfandel in California that you can find these bottles at quite low prices.

Recommendations

  • Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel ($16) – some vineyard blocks up to 120 yrs old
  • Carol Shelton Wild Thing Old Vine Zinfandel ($20) – 60 yr old vines
  • Bedrock Wine Co. Old Vine Zinfandel ($25) – vines average 80 yrs old
  • Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel ($35) – vines average 75 yrs old

What Can Winemakers Do When Impacted by Wildfires?

It’s like deja vu all over again. In October 2017 we all watched in helpless horror as wildfires tore through northern California’s wine country, threatening lives, property and vineyards. In total, the fires killed 44 people that year. Then in 2018, California experienced the deadliest and most destructive wildfires on record, killing 85 people. Only two short years later, we are witnessing the same thing happening again.

Few industries have been as susceptible to the impacts of climate change as the wine industry. If you ask any grape grower they will tell you without hesitation that climate change is real and is having a substantial impact on their vineyards. For some, climate change may be positive. Vineyards in historically cooler areas are now warming up, allowing grapes to ripen more fully and consistently, leading to increasingly concentrated wines and more high quality vintages. It also means areas of the world that were once too cold for grape growing are now able to produce wine. Take a look at the delicious sparkling wines coming out of the UK.

However, many warm grape growing regions are now getting hotter and drier. You only have to look at the past three years to find raging wildfires in California and Australia, an intense multi-year drought in South Africa, and severe temperature spikes in Spain. These changes result in sunburned, damaged or destroyed fruit. Fruit that does survive can contain such high sugar levels that resulting alcohol can easily reach above 16% ABV, causing wines to taste jammy and flabby with an obvious alcohol burn and little nuance or flavor complexity.

Then there is the issue of smoke taint in regions that experience fire. The previous California wildfires occurred in the Fall after much of the grape harvest had already taken place, with wines safely stored away in barrels in cellars where they were protected from smoke. Not so this year. The current wildfires in California could not have occurred at a worse time for winemakers – right before harvest when the grapes are most susceptible to environmental influences.

It is obvious from the photos coming out of California of Mars-like orange skies and air thick with smoke, that some vineyards will have to deal with grapes infected by smoke taint. Smoke does not damage a vine in the long term as it doesn’t get into the roots or the soil. Rather, it is absorbed into the skins of ripening grapes, so it can’t simply be washed off. Smoke taint results in flavors in the wine described as burnt, ashy and medicinal. So what are wineries to do?

  1. The first thing is to assess the damage by conducting laboratory analyses on the grapes to determine the level of smoke taint in the fruit.
  2. If the smoke taint isn’t excessive, there are several options available to the winemaker:
    1. They can choose to produce white, rose or sparkling wines from the grapes. These wine styles are produced by quickly draining the juice off the grape skins prior to fermentation. By limiting contact with the skins, the juice will pick up fewer of those smokey volatile compounds.
    2. They can blend smoke-tainted batches of wine with batches that are not tainted. They can also over-oak the wine by adding oak flavoring. The idea is to dilute or mask the off-flavors in the tainted wine with the unaffected wine or oak flavoring.
    3. They can process the wine using reverse osmosis or similar methods. Reverse osmosis separates the components of the wine – water, ethanol, flavor, color, tannins, etc. Once separated, the tainted components of the wine can be removed and the remainder blended back together. This is not only an expensive process, but it’s also not always very effective.
  3. If smoke taint levels are too high, the above methods won’t work effectively. In that case, the producer may have no choice but to dump their entire vintage of wine. It may also be possible to sell the wine (usually at a financial loss) to be used in other products such as hand sanitizer. In some cases, the wine may be potentially sold to distilleries to produce spirits.

It is too soon to tell how affected West Coast vineyards will be due to the still raging wildfires, although many producers remain optimistic. Harvest is just beginning and it will take time to assess the damage and determine steps forward.

Winemakers & Cowboys: A Weekend in Paso Robles

There are many amazing wine regions throughout the world, which means I have plenty of vacation ideas on my bucket list. However, I find myself returning to California over and over again. The state is not only rugged and beautiful, but they produce some of my all time favorite wines.

 

When you think of California wine, most people will automatically think of elegant and sophisticated Napa Valley, and perhaps even  somewhat more laid back Sonoma. While I have travelled to both places quite a few times, and my cellar is dominated by Napa Cabernet, my husband and I love visiting less well-known Paso Robles.

If you like big, red wines with lots of balanced fruit and body, this is the region for you. There are definitely more refined and elegant styles of wines being made there these days, but Paso is well-known for it’s powerful, juicy and full-bodied reds.

Paso Robles is considered the Wild West of California wine regions. In fact, it was founded by Jesse James’s uncle, Drury James. Folks in Paso say the cowboys give the winemakers a wild edge and the winemakers help refine the cowboys. Either way, in Paso the winemakers and the cowboys are one and the same.

Paso Robles is the fastest growing wine region in California with over 200 wineries today, mainly made up of small family-run producers. It is located in the Central Coast of California, about 2 hours drive north of Santa Barbara, and halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The closest airport is San Luis Obispo County Regional Airport, which requires a brief layover in LA or San Francisco when flying from the east coast. From the airport, Paso Robles is a 30 minute drive east over the Santa Lucia coastal mountain range.

Paso Robles has a warm Mediterranean climate, characterized by long dry summers, warm autumns and rain mainly during its short winters. During the summer grape growing season, daytime temperatures can soar to 105 degrees F. However, the region has the largest day/night temperature swing of any other wine region in the state. At night, temperatures can plummet by 50 degrees. It is this constant fluctuation in temperature that makes this such an amazing region for grape growing.

Many of the grape varieties grown in the area require warm to hot conditions to ripen fully. Yet cooling at night is essential for the grapes to retain fresh acidity, so they don’t get over-ripe, jammy and flabby. This cooling effect in Paso Robles is helped by coastal breezes that blow inland through the valleys every afternoon, as well as by altitude. The west side of Paso Robles, where the most highly regarded vineyards are located, rises up to 2400 meters above sea level, helping to moderate the climate. These factors result in powerful, ripe wines that still have vibrant acidity and freshness.

Paso Robles is known for its “Rhône Varietals”, which just means they grow the same grapes in Paso that are also grown in the Rhône, France. These are dominated by Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. However, Paso Robles is also a region capable of growing the widest variety of grapes in California (over 40 different varietals), so you will also find reds such as Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Spanish and Italian varieties, as well as whites including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Rousanne and Albariño. 

More than just the incredible wines and weather, I love visiting Paso because of the people. The wine industry in Paso is like one big family. There is no competition between wineries. It’s a small community of winegrowers and winemakers and families that have all worked together at some point in their careers and been helped and mentored by each other. The support and encouragement they show each other is inspirational.

It is also an incredibly approachable, unpretentious wine region. It isn’t uncommon to see children and pets in tasting rooms. Everyone is welcome. It’s also an area where it is still possible to visit a winery and find the owner or winemaker strolling the grounds and wandering over to say hello and strike up a conversation with the patrons.

   

One of my best experiences was visiting Epoch Estate and sitting outside on a picnic table with my husband when a big guy in a cowboy hat sits down with us and introduces himself as Bill Armstrong, the winery’s owner. We had a great conversation with him and left with free bottles of wine and one signed by Bill that said, “Dave and Dina. Move to Paso! -Bill Armstrong”. That kind of thing just doesn’t happen in Napa.

Paso Robles is a beautiful place filled with phenomenal people and amazing wines. There is no where else like it. If you decide to visit Paso Robles, here are some recommendations of accommodations, wineries and restaurants. The best experiences are the tours and private tasting appointments that can be booked in advance via the winery websites, so plan ahead.

Wineries:

Clos Selene Winery, 2040 Niderer Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://www.clossolene.com/ – Clos Selene is a family-run vineyard with seven generations of wine making roots in Langeudoc and Bordeaux, France. The tasting room is a covered outdoor patio situated right next to the owner/winemaker’s home, with views of the surrounding vineyards. It makes for a cozy and intimate experience with beautiful wines that are influenced by a French winemaking style.

Daou Vineyards, 2777 Hidden Mountain Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446 , https://www.daouvineyards.com/ – The only thing better than the wine at Daou is the utterly breathtaking view. The winery sits atop Daou Mountain, providing panoramic vistas from the gorgeous outdoor patio. Buy a bottle of wine in the tasting room, pull up a comfortable table by the outdoor fireplace, order a charcuterie plate and sit back, relax and take in the scenery. Daou makes for a magical afternoon.

L’Aventure Winery, 2815 Live Oak Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://www.aventurewine.com/ – L’Aventure has very nice wines, but they are also provide one of the best tasting room experiences. Not only is the staff incredibly friendly and accommodating, but you can take a tour of their wine caves, which is a fun experience.

Law Estate Wines, 3885 Peachy Canyon Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://www.lawestatewines.com/ – When many of the vineyard owners you meet around Paso tell you the best wine in the area is being made at Law Estates, you have to try it. I can tell you from first-hand experience, Law absolutely produces some of the best wines in the region. The tasting room is also a stunning hilltop masterpiece of concrete, steel and wood with unbeatable views. It’s a not-to-be-missed experience.

TH Estate, 870 Arbor Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://thestatewines.com/ – In an area where big, powerful red wines are everywhere, TH Estate produces beautifully elegant, sophisticated and balanced wines. They are also a winery that runs on a budget and may not have the latest and greatest wine production technology. Instead, they do things the old fashioned way, which makes for a very fun and educational tour of the facilities. The best wine we had on our last trip to Paso was a barrel tasting of TH Estate’s 100% Syrah that hasn’t yet been bottled. We’ll definitely be buying some when it is released!

Tin City, https://www.tincitypasorobles.com/ – Tin City is an industrial warehouse complex that has been reclaimed by boutique wineries and delicious restaurants that turned it into a hip and trendy enclave where you can spend an afternoon walking from one tasting room to another. If you get tired of wine, there is also an excellent brewery and distillery. Many new wine brands led by young rising stars in the wine industry get their start in Tin City, making some really interesting and unique wines that you’ll never find in your local wine shop at home. Some of my favorites are Benom, Jacob Toft and Top. For lunch, stop into Tin Canteen, and for a very unique dinner experience, check out Six Test Kitchen (see below).

Restaurants:

BL Brasserie, 1202 Pine St, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://www.bistrolaurent.com – BL Brasserie, formerly known as Bistro Laurent, stands out amongst a plethora of California cuisine by offering decidedly French fare. As a lover of France cuisine, I can attest that BL Brasserie does not disappoint. The food is delicious and the service attentive. The chef has been in Paso for 20 years, and his longevity in running this restaurant is a testament to its quality in a area with so much excellent competition.

Kitchenette, 105 S Main St #1, Templeton, CA 93465, http://kitchenettetempleton.com/ – Kitchenette is 10 minutes south of Paso Robles in the town of Templeton, but it’s a must visit breakfast spot. The corn beef hash is like none you will have ever eaten anywhere else (I dream about that hash)! They also make amazing breakfast burritos and perfectly executed ricotta pancakes.

The Hatch, 835 13th St, Paso Robles, CA 93446, http://www.hatchpasorobles.com – The Hatch is a trendy location one block from the Paso Robles Downtown Park. They have a wide selection of wines on draft, micro brews, small batch whiskey, and delicious hand-crafted cocktails. The menu is centered on seasonal comfort food with a twist, and it’s delicious!

Thomas Hill Organics, 1313 Park St, Paso Robles, CA 93446, https://www.thomashillorganics.com – Thomas Hill Organics is a farm-to-table restaurant using the freshest organic and regionally sourced ingredients. Sit outside on their covered patio for a beautiful and very tasty dining experience.

The Restaurant at Justin, 11680 Chimney Rock Rd, Paso Robles, CA 93446, https://justinwine.com/visit-justin-winery/restaurant.html – If you are feeling adventurous and have a rental car, it’s well worth your time to take the 30 minute journey along winding country roads to reach Justin Winery and Restaurant, a vineyard oasis in the middle of untouched forest. Justin is a well-known large producer  of excellent wines with price points for everyone. The restaurant, located off the tasting room, offers a beautiful chef’s tasting menu with optional wine pairings. However, if you’re going to Justin, it’s a no-brainer to pair your courses with Justin wines. The service, food and wine pairings are impeccable.

Accommodations:

Hotel Cheval, 1021 Pine St, Paso Robles, CA 93446, https://www.hotelcheval.com/

I am a big fan of VRBO.com, and have had nothing but fantastic experiences renting short-term vacation homes through the app. I have found that I really enjoy the space, privacy and peace of staying in a house rental, especially in places that I feel comfortable exploring on my own and don’t feel the need to concierge assistance or hotel ammenitites. Also, with two growing kids, having extra bedrooms at the same or cheaper price than a studio hotel room is definitely the way to go. If you are interested in exploring a house rental, here are two phenomenal options:

Homestead Hill Vineyard, http://www.thacherwinery.com/stay/ – This home is owned and rented by Thatcher Winery. It is located at the mid-point of a small hill with vineyards stretching out before and behind the home. A large front porch afford gorgeous views of the vines while enjoying morning coffee or an afternoon glass of wine. The updated home has three comfortable bedrooms, a large kitchen and dining area, and is very well appointed. It also has a bonus cottage next to the house with a cozy lounge perfect for reading a good book or just enjoying some solitude.

Willow and Vine, https://pasoroblesvacationrentals.com/rental/willow-vine/ –  If you don’t need as much space as that offered at Homestead Hill, the two-bedroom Willow and Vine home is a perfect option. The home has been lovingly updated with rustic wine country touches and modern amenities. The bed is probably the most comfortable that I have ever slept in during my entire life. The home also has a beautiful front porch with astonishingly  comfortable chairs that you can sink into while listening to the peaceful sounds of surrounding birds and other wildlife.

If you have any wine-related questions, wine tasting/review requests, or suggestions for future blog posts, please send me an email at [email protected].