Tag Archives: Napa Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon: Napa vs. Walla Walla

Walla Walla, WA and Napa Valley, CA are separated by 750 miles, a completely different climate and a resulting distinctly different wine style. I find that Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla sits somewhere between Napa and Bordeaux in style.

Washington State may arguably be one the most underrated wine regions in the new world. It’s tough being in the shadow of Napa’s prestige and Willamette’s fame for Pinot Noir. Washington’s wine diversity is a benefit and a curse. They aren’t known for one particular wine like Napa and Willamette. Instead, they are more like Sonoma – able to produce a wide range of high quality wines. However, that means they aren’t viewed as the “go to” region for anything in particular.

Although Washington makes excellent Riesling, Pinot Gris and Syrah, their fame is rising for Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla, with quality that rivals California but without the insanely high price tag. However, if you are expecting a big, fruity, high alcohol style of wine a la Napa, your expectations will be dashed, for better or for worse, depending on your wine preference.

Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla has higher acidity than Napa and slightly less body, more moderate alcohol levels as well as a very distinct earthy character and grippier tannins. This means Washington Cabs may need a little more cellar time to soften than those lush, hedonistic Napa Cabs. That may sound very Bordeaux-like, and it is, but I would say Walla Walla has riper fruit and more fullness than Bordeaux.

To my palate, Walla Walla Cabernet offers a perfect middle ground – balanced fruit and earth, alcohol that adds body without burning your esophagus, and the ability to improve with time in the cellar. All of that, with a price tag that while not cheap, makes them an excellent value compared to Napa and Bordeaux.

Recommendations:

  • Seven Hills Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)
  • L’Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40)
  • K Vintners The Creator ($60)
  • Reynvaan The Classic Estate Cabernet ($70)
  • Figgins Estate Red ($90)

Turf War over To-Kalon

To-Kalon (pronounced toe-kah-lon) is one of the most historic, famous and disputed names in Napa Valley history. Is it a vineyard? Is it a brand? Some of the Valley’s most prestigious personalities – Robert Mondavi and Andy Beckstoffer – have been battling each other over these questions for decades.

Why is this specific piece of land in Napa Valley’s Oakville AVA so special? Here the soils have a high portion of gravel, which makes them free-draining, forcing vines to root deeply in search of water. When vines struggle, they become healthier, more resistant to drought and disease, and produce lower yields of better quality fruit.

Some of the best, most prestigious wines in Napa Valley come from the To-Kalon vineyard, which is reflected in very high price tags. Today, there are eight owners of the parceled off vineyard – Mondavi, Opus One, MacDonald, Detert, Andy Beckstoffer, U.C. Davis, Wilsey/Traina and the Napa Valley Grape Growers. Opus One sells $300/bottle, Schrader’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon sells for $400, and MacDonald sells for $700.

In the beginning…

It all began in 1868 when Hamilton Walker Crabb purchased 240 acres of farmland in Oakville. He planted the land with a wide variety of experimental grape vines and named it Hermosa Vineyards. In 1881 he purchased an adjoining 119 acre parcel of land and renamed the business To-Kalon, meaning “the place of highest beauty” in Greek. In 1891, he expanded for a third time, adding on another 135 acres. He became the third largest winemaking in Napa at the time and garnered both domestic and international claim for his wines.

In 1899 Crabb died and his land was fragmented and sub-parcels changed hands a number of times until Robert Mondavi began purchasing plots of To-Kalon in 1966. He started with a 12-acre parcel and by 1978 was the majority owner of Crabb’s original 1881 plot. In 1988, Mondavi trademarked the name “To-Kalon” and in 1994 trademarked “To-Kalon Vineyard”. Today, the majority of the vineyard as well as the trademarks are owned by the behemoth, Constellation Brands, due to its purchase of Robert Mondavi in 2004.

The battle ensues…

The second largest holder was Beaulieu Vineyards with 89 acres. This parcel was purchased by famous Napa grapegrower, Andy Beckstoffer, in 1993 who sold grapes from this parcel to other winemakers. Beckstoffer convinced Schrader Cellars to label their wine “Beckstoffer Original To-Kalon Vineyard.” Mondavi then sued Schrader for use of the To-Kalon name.

Both Schrader and Beckstoffer filed separate counter suits on the basis that To-Kalon is a place, not a marketing concept. Beckstoffer argued that Mondavi was misleading consumers by labeling their wines “To-Kalon” when the grapes being used were not from the original Crabb vineyard.

The conclusion…

The suit was settled in 2003 under undisclosed terms, but Beckstoffer reserved the right to allow his clients to use the To-Kalon name. The result has led to labeling confusion. Wines made from Beckstoffer’s grapes using the To-Kalon label are subject to labeling laws based on geographic location, meaning 95% of the grapes in such a bottle must be from the To-Kalon vineyard.

However, since Mondavi’s claim to the name is based on a marketing trademark, it is not subject to the same rules. So Mondavi may use the To-Kalon name on any bottle it desires, regardless of where those grapes come from! Constellation’s position is that To-Kalon is not a place, regardless of the historical records that suggest otherwise.

There are two other owners of smaller parcels of Crabb’s original To-Kalon vineyard – MacDonald and Detert – highly acclaimed, family-owned wineries that are not allowed to use the To-Kalon name on their wines.

But wait, there’s more!

In 2017, Constellation started a new wine brand called To-Kalon Vineyard. They attempted to file further trademarks on the To-Kalon name, but Beckstoffer put up firm opposition in court and Constellation abandoned the effort.

MacDonald has also filed a petition to have the To-Kalon vineyard added to the National Registry of Historic Places, which is being fought by Constellation. At the same time, a suit was filed against Constellation by The Vineyard House (owned by Far Niente and Nickel and Nickel proprietor, Jeremy Nickel) claiming that Robert Mondavi’s To-Kalon trademark was obtained fraudulently and deceptively. The suit was dismissed by a federal judge, but Constellation in turn sued The Vineyard House for their use of To-Kalon on one of their wine labels.

Constellation continues to adamantly support the position that To-Kalon is a brand, not a place. While defenders of the vineyard, MacDonald and Beckstoffer, are concerned the original vineyard and its special terroir will be forgotten someday due to these trademarks being used on wines that can originate anywhere.

 

PRODUCER SPOTLIGHT: Lang & Reed, Napa Valley

What’s rarer than a cheerful teenager? A winemaker in Napa Valley that doesn’t produce any Cabernet Sauvignon! Meet Lang & Reed, a rare breed of Napa winery that focuses on the other Cabernet – Cabernet Franc, as well as Chenin Blanc.

When I was in Napa Valley a few weeks ago, I had time for only one winery visit. I had a plethora of well-known and highly regarded options to choose from – Opus One, Stag’s Leap, Far Niente, Chappellet, etc. Yet rather than booking a visit to those hedonistic Cabernet Sauvignon strongholds with their grand tasting rooms surrounded by stunningly picturesque vineyards, I went in a completely different direction. Instead, I chose to celebrate the completion of my wine exams with Lang & Reed in their quaint tasting room in a historic house located in the heart of St. Helena’s downtown.

I first had a glass of Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc in February 2021 at the California Grill restaurant in Disney World, one month before the world entered pandemic shut down. It was an unusual choice for me – I had never ordered a glass of Cabernet Franc before, which is why I chose it. I wanted to try something different, something not Cabernet Sauvignon, from a wine list dominated by well-known California labels. That glass stayed with me – it was medium bodied with light tannins, red fruit and a very distinctive earthy, dried leaf character. It was nothing like your typical rich, jammy, high alcohol California red. It made me want to know more about Lang & Reed.

When I walked in the door at Lang & Reed two years after that first introduction to their wine, I was immediately greeted by owner John Skupny. He led me to a cheerful tasting room where we proceeded to spend the next two hours chatting about his long and storied journey in the wine industry. A born and bred mid-Westerner, John and his wife Tracey spent decades working in the restaurant industry in Kansas City, which led to positions as wine stewards/buyers.

They eventually moved to Napa in the 1970s during the time of the “Judgement of Paris” and watched Napa evolve from a hippie farmer community to one led by elite, cult winemakers. John moved from restaurants to working at wineries and spent formative years working with Francis Ford Coppola, during the time Coppola was filming Godfather III. John helped convince Coppola to purchase the historic Inglenook winery, which solidified Coppola’s place in Napa history.

Ultimately, John decided to try his hand at winemaking without any formal training. He wanted to make something unique and expressive. Cabernet Franc was already planted in pockets across Napa as a blending varietal with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for Bordeaux-style blends. However, John’s love of the Loire Valley, where Cabernet Franc is produced as a single varietal, inspired the creation of Lang & Reed. The winery is named for the middle names of his two sons, J Reed and Jerzy Lang.

John purchases grapes from partner growers to make his wines. However, sources of Cabernet Franc are limited in Napa. In fact, Lang & Reed produces some very special, extremely limited bottlings of which only 1-2 barrels were ever made! For example, the 2010 Franc de Pied was produced from bare rooted (rather than grafted) old vines that were producing very small yields of fruit, but fruit that was highly concentrated and complex. Only two barrels were made, and the 2010 is the last vintage of this wine since the ungrafted vineyard eventually succumbed to the ravages of the root louse, phylloxera, and no longer exists.

Lang & Reed’s Cabernet Franc bottlings are complex, intriguing and unique, but let’s not forget they also produce excellent Chenin Blanc, the other main grape of the Loire Valley. Their Chenin Blanc was the idea of John’s son, Reed, who partnered with his dad to produce this bottling. Sourcing Chenin Blanc grapes was exponentially more difficult than finding sources of Cabernet Franc, but they eventually found their ideal fruit in cool Mendocino County, north of Sonoma.

Lang & Reed is truly a family business producing wonderfully unique, small production wines. The Lang & Reed entry level Cabernet Franc can be found in larger wine shops around the country for $30. Their more unique, limited bottlings will need to be purchased on their website. Even better, make it a point to visit Lang & Reed the next time you find yourself in Napa Valley and need a break from Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cheers!