Author Archives: Dina Given

What the Mother?!

What is that disgusting blob of gunk you sometimes find floating at the bottom of your bottle of vinegar? It is actually a by-product of the process that turns wine into vinegar, and it’s called The Mother.

The Mother is a mass of acetic acid bacteria that feeds on the alcohol in wine and ferments it into vinegar. It forms naturally on the surface of wine when that wine is left in contact with oxygen. Most often, the vinegar you buy in the supermarket is filtered so there is no residual sugar or alcohol that would fuel the development of a Mother. However, unfiltered vinegar, such as Bragg’s Raw Apple Cider Vinegar, will often have a Mother floating at the bottom. You can also make your own Mother with some time and patience, borrow one from someone else, or purchase one at a specialty online retailer.

Once you get a Mother, you can place it into a clean glass jar and use it as a starter to make your own vinegar. It’s a great solution for any unfinished glasses or bottles of wine. Just pour any leftover wine into the jar with the Mother and let it sit, covered, on your counter at room temperature.

It will take a month or two to ferment the wine into vinegar, but the Mother will last almost indefinitely. My mom has a vinegar mother that was given to her by my grandmother decades ago and it’s still going strong.

Once your wine has been converted to vinegar (taste it to find out) siphon it off into a separate jar for use, and continue adding leftover wine to the Mother jar to start creating a new batch.

Wine FAQs

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What are Wine Legs?

Wine Legs, also called Wine Tears, are a fun quality to observe in your wine glass, but what do they really tell you? Legs are those droplets that slide down the inside of your glass after you swirl your wine. They have absolutely nothing to do with a wine’s quality and everything to do with a scientific phenomenon called the Gibbs-Marangoni Effect. This effect essentially gives you clues as to the wine’s alcohol and sugar content. Thicker droplets and more droplets indicate a wine with higher alcohol levels while slower, more viscous droplets indicate a wine with higher sugar levels. Upon swirling, alcohol evaporates and surface tension pushes the liquid up the sides of your glass. When the alcohol evaporates from the liquid, the remaining wine/water mix slides back down the glass. This is why higher alcohol wines have heavier tears. If you have a closed bottle of wine and you shake it, this phenomenon doesn’t occur! This is because no evaporation is happening. Evaporation of alcohol is the key to why wine tears appear.

What are Tannins?

Tannins are compounds found in the skin and pips (seeds) of a grape, and also come from the wood of wine barrels. You will find higher tannins in red wines and almost none in white wines because red wine is usually soaked and fermented on their skins (to extract color along with tannins) and often aged in oak, while white wines are usually made by draining the juice quickly off the skins and fermenting in stainless steel. The major exception to this rule is orange wines, which are made form white grapes soaked on their skins. A higher level of tannin in wine can be the result of grapes with thicker skins, a longer time soaking on skins, and/or a longer time aging in barrel.

Tannins are an important structural component to a wine, lending texture, flavor, balance and ageability. Tannins are bitter and astringent, as well as mouth drying. If you slosh around a mouthful of wine and swallow, that drying sensation left behind on your gums and the roof of your mouth are caused by tannins – the dryer the sensation, the higher the tannin level in the wine. For an obvious example, taste a glass of Pinot Noir (low tannins) next to a glass of Barolo (very high tannins).

Tannins can also have textural differences, with some wines described as having smooth, soft or ripe tannins and others having rough, chalky or grippy tannins. Much of this can be the result of the grape variety, the climate (warmer climates tend to produce riper, softer tannins), the wine’s age (tannins may be rougher when a wine is young), and whether the wine is aged in oak (oak barrels will help soften tannins).

Tannins are also a preservative of wine, acting as an antioxidant. Wines with higher tannins are able to be cellared longer without going bad, and these tannins often “smooth out” with time, becoming softer and silky.

What are sulfites and do they cause headaches?

This is the single most common question I get at my wine tastings, so let’s break it down. Sulfites are a compound that occur naturally in wine, but can also be added to wine at certain stages of the winemaking process. Sulfites do two things: 1) they are an anti-oxidant used to protect wine from becoming oxidized (turning brown, losing fruit flavor, and turning to vinegar); 2) they are also an anti-microbial and preservative inhibiting bacteria that can lead to funky, off flavors in your wine. Sulfites have played a major role in modern winemaking to significantly improve the quality and ageability of wines. So why do they have such a bad rep?

Many people believe sulfites cause headaches. This has been widely studied, but never proven to be true. So what is causing your headaches after drinking wine? There are a few possible culprits:

  1. Alcohol! This is the obvious answer, but often overlooked. You don’t have to get completely drunk with the world’s worst hangover to get headaches from alcohol and dehydration. Even moderate amounts of alcohol and too little water can cause a headache. Make sure you stay hydrated while drinking and see if that helps.
  2. Tannins. Tannin is a compound in wine (mainly red wine) that causes that mouth drying effect. Some people may have a tannin sensitivity. If drinking strong black tea or eating walnuts (both of which also have high tannins) bothers you, it could be a tannin sensitivity.
  3. Histamines. Wine has high levels of histamines (as does other foods such as fermented foods and dairy products). High levels of histamines can trigger an immune response in the body, resulting in symptoms like headaches, skin irritation and stomach/GI distress. If you suspect histamines may be the cause of your headaches, you can try taking an antihistamine like Claritin before drinking.
  4. Sulfites. A small number of people (estimated at 1 in 100) may actually have a sensitivity to sulfites, but this is rare. How would you know? Since sulfites act as a preservative, they are found at high levels in many packaged foods. Dried fruits can have over 2,000ppm, which is over 5 times more than what is allowable in wine! If raisins and dried apricots don’t give you headaches, you do not have a sulfite sensitivity.

What is Structure?

Structure refers to the main elements in wine that can be assessed to determine a wine’s quality: acid, tannin, sweetness, alcohol, body and flavor. Ideally, these elements will balance each other to produce a quality product. For example, sweetness can curb the puckering edge of high acidity, refreshing acid can tone down the bitterness of high tannins, fruit intensity can tame the heat of high alcohol, etc. Everyone’s palates are different and the level of each structural element in a wine will appeal or repel people differently, but one element should never overwhelm the others or be missing from the equation. A wine with too low tannin or alcohol may taste thin, a wine with no acid may be flabby, a wine that lacks fruit concentration may be bland and boring. A skilled winemaker will use these structural elements to craft wines that are harmonious, balanced and therefore of high quality.

What is the impact of California’s heat wave on grapevines?

California has been experiencing their worst heat wave in the state’s history. Napa Valley broke their hottest temp on record last week, reaching 109 degrees. How will this impact the 2022 harvest? All is not lost for grapegrowers. A grapevine will actually shut down, ceasing photosynthesis and grape ripening, when temps reach 96 degrees. That means temps in the low 90s are actually more concerning than temps over 100! If a grapevine is given sufficient water during hot periods, it will help prevent grape shriveling and over-ripening. Dehydration will cause raisining and a spike in sugar, so winemakers will try to avoid this at all costs. Harvest dates are also critical. Many growers are choosing to pick earlier this year before sugar levels get too out of control. Sugar levels are determined by a unit called Brix, and these will monitored closely. Once the grapes hit the desired Brix level, they will be picked. It just means the grapes are reaching the desired Brix levels earlier this year than in prior vintages, so are still being picked at the right Brix levels before they get too high. Excellent wines will still be made in 2022, but some may be a bit riper and richer this vintage.

Off the Beaten Wine Trail: Bugey-Cerdon

Bugey is a wine I love to include in my in-person tasting events, as either a starter or a finisher. It fills both spots nicely – bubbles to celebrate the start of an event, or something semi-sweet to pair with dessert. There aren’t too many wines out there that can fill both positions with the prettiness and finesse of Bugey-Cerdon. It has been hailed as “the happiest wine on earth.”

Bugey is a tiny (1,000 acres of vineyards), little known Alpine hamlet in eastern France, halfway between Lyon and Geneva. It is located in the “middle of nowhere” foothills of the Jura Mountains, bordered by Beaujolais to the west, Savoie to the east, Jura and Burgundy to the north, and the Rhone to the south. The vineyards are not contiguous – they are scattered throughout this small region nestled in valleys between mountains and ridges.

Here you will find a cool, sub-Alpine climate of cold winters and mild summers where grapes can struggle to ripen. This is a climate well suited to sparkling wines, which only need “just ripe enough” grapes to get good flavor, but preserve that all-important acidity.

The Bugey region produces a number of different grape varieties, mostly white, aromatic, lower in alcohol, and higher in acidity. Chardonnay is it’s primary varietal, but they also grow Jacquère, Altesse and Aligoté for the whites, and Poulsard, Mondeuse, Pinot Noir and Gamay for the reds.

However, its most famous and distinctive wine is Bugey-Cerdon. Wine from Cerdon, one of Bugey’s three cru areas, is always sparkling, fetchingly pink, and a touch sweet with low alcohol (around 8% ABV). These incredibly easy drinking wines are made from a blend of Gamay and Poulsard grapes, and the flavors are reminiscent of wild berries, strawberries and cream.

According to French law, Bugey-Cerdon must be made by the méthode ancestrale (also known as pet-nat, petillent natural, ancestral method, or col fondo), an ancient process for producing bubbly wine that predates Champagne.

In méthode ancestrale, partially fermented wine is bottled with its remaining residual sugar and yeast. Fermentation then continues in the bottle and the byproduct of carbon dioxide becomes trapped, creating bubbles. This technique was likely discovered by accident. During the winter months, yeast becomes dormant when the wine is bottled, then the yeast awakens with warm spring temperatures and finishes fermenting. Many small producers use this process because it’s the most accessible way to make sparkling wine as it doesn’t require the expensive equipment needed to make Champagne method wines.

Bugey-Cerdon must be aged in the bottle on lees (dead yeast cells) for a minimum of 9 months, imparting a creamy texture. Many of these wines may be left unfined and unfiltered, so may include some leftover yeast cells, resulting in a slightly hazy appearance.

These wines have lower pressures, calmer foam and larger bubbles than Champagne-method wines. This means they are more aromatic and flavorful upon opening, but the bubbles will dissipate more quickly as the wine ages so they are meant to be drunk young and not cellared.

Recommendations:

  • Patrick Bottex Bugey Cerdon La Cueille ($20)
  • Daniel Boccard Cerdon Bugey Demi-Sec Rose ($23)

Southern Hemisphere Chardonnays

When I took my wine exam this past May, I was required to complete a blind tasting of 12 wines organized into four flights of three wines each. The goal of the first flight is to identify the common grape variety. I thought I had it in the bag, until I reached the final question.

When the wines for the first flight (common grape variety) were placed in front of me, I was pretty sure I knew what they were immediately. Based on color alone, the white wines ranged from pale to medium lemon, with the latter likely indicating oak aging. I then took a quick sniff of all three and the oak was very obvious on the last wine. There are very few white wines that are aged in oak, with Chardonnay being the most obvious.

So I was pretty sure I had Chardonnay for the first flight. I proceeded to smell and taste, then write copious tasting notes on each wine. When I was done, I was very confident in my assessment. As expected, we were asked us to identify the common grape variety and our justification. My justification was based on the varying levels of oak usage throughout the wines in the flight.

Then I looked at the final question, and it threw me for a bit of a loop. It stated that all three wines were from a country in the Southern Hemisphere, and we were asked to identify and justify each wine’s country of origin. My confidence took a hit, but I gave it my best shot…and it turns out I got them all correct! How did I do it? Let’s break it down.

  1. Wine #1: This wine was light, delicate and crisp. It had good acidity with bright, citrusy flavors and aromas of lemon, lime and green apple along with a steely minerality. It was the lightest bodied of the three wines and had very little to no oak influence. I correctly guessed this wine was from New Zealand. New Zealand is known for very clean wines with great purity of fruit. New Zealand’s rich history in the dairy industry meant they had a deep and long-standing commitment to cleanliness and anti-bacterial production processes, which gave their wine industry a significant advantage when it started up in the 1970s. Winemakers in New Zealand prefer to showcase this fresh, clean fruit character rather than mask it with excess oak. Dog Point Chardonnay 2018, Marlborough, New Zealand.
  2. Wine #2: This wine was refined and elegant, with nice oak character on the nose, but it was well integrated with ripe citrus and peach notes. It was medium bodied with a slightly creamy texture from malolactic fermentation, but wasn’t overly buttery at all. If I hadn’t known it was a Southern Hemisphere wine, I would have guessed Burgundy. That was actually a clue that led me to correctly identify this wine as South African. As with many South African wines, this region sits decidedly between Old World and New World in style. Their wines are flavorful and ripe due to the warm new world climate, but offer the elegance and balance often seen in old world wines. In fact, this wine was from Franschoek, an area of South Africa that was settled by the French, who introduced their knowledge and style of French viniculture that can still be found in many of the wines today. Cape Chamonix Chardonnay 2019, Franschhoek, South Africa.
  3. Wine #3: This was the biggest and oakiest of the wines in the flight. The oak was dominant, almost to the point where it was tricky to pick out distinct fruit characters. On the palate it was big and full bodied with a buttery texture. I could have gone with either Chile or Australia on this one, but correctly chose Chile. I find Chilean wines to be most similar to Californian wines, especially those from the warm Central Valley. They are big, rich and fruity, but have a distinct earthy character that separates them from California. This wine also showed very little elegance and didn’t have as much balancing acidity to offset its weight. It was the lowest quality wine of the flight. Both Australia and Chile produce a good amount of inexpensive wine, but it was the acidity that led me to Chile. I tend to find Australian wines, even at the lower quality levels, have good acidity (many times because they generously add acidity to wines that are often over-baked from that hot Aussie sun). The big style, loads of oak and moderate acidity led me to a Central Valley Chardonnay from Chile. Chateau Los Boldos Tradition Reserve Chardonnay 2021, Cachapoal, Chile.

There are always wide ranging variations on a wine’s style within a country or wine region, so while these rules may apply generally, you will not always find them to be true in every wine you try from these regions. There are plenty of low-quality, bulk wines to be found in South Africa, and similarly, there are many phenomenal, high quality, elegant wines to be found in Chile. One of the things to remember about these wine exams is that they are not always trying to trick you. In many cases, they want you to be able to identify the “classic” or “common” markers of a wine/region/country.

If you haven’t yet started exploring Southern Hemisphere Chardonnays, you can always use the guidance above to start with the country that most suits your Chardonnay palate. Cheers, and happy exploring!

 

 

Off the Beaten Wine Trail: Txakolina

Although Txakolina looks like a terribly difficult name to pronounce, it is actually quite easy, and kind of fun to say – “chah-kuh-leena.” But what the heck is it?!

Txakolina is a low alcohol, lively, dry white wine that can sometimes have a little spritz in it from quick bottling before tank fermentation has completed, so fermentation finishes in the bottle.

These wines originate in Basque Country, a coastal mountain region in northern Spain. Basque Country is an autonomous community that is viewed as a separate nationality of Basque people on Spanish soil, with their own Parliament and Prime Minister. They even have their own Basque language.

Basque Country is also esteemed as the capital of gastronomy in Spain. It has the greatest concentration of Michelin starred restaurants than any other region in the country. It is known for its seafood as well as bar finger food, called pintxos. It is also known for its most famous local wine, Txakolina (also called Txakoli).

In recent history, it has been a wine that hasn’t been taken very seriously and was mainly a homemade wine. In fact, Spanish wine law in the 1970s described it as a wine made with grapes “that cannot normally reach full ripeness” because of the cooler, coastal mountain climate in Basque Country. There was a risk it could not be classified as actual wine because it often didn’t meet minimal required alcohol levels.

Fast forward a couple of decades and with new technology, a better understanding of viticulture, and enterprising new winemakers, these grapes consistently reach ripeness and alcohol levels between 10.5-13% ABV.

Txakolina is mainly produced with the white Hondurrabi Zuri grape, although some producers will blend it with a small amount of other varieties. There is also a red version made with Hondurrabi Beltza grapes, which are similar to Cabernet Franc. You can also find Txakolina in a rose style. In their native Spain, these wines are poured with a special flourish with the bottle held high and poured in a long stream into the glass, said to help aerate the wine and encourage the fizz.

These wines are very often meant to be drunk young, with low to moderate alcohol, delicate citrus and apples flavors and vibrant acidity with light effervescence. It’s an excellent food pairing wine, especially as an aperitif, with tapas, antipasto or charcuterie. It also makes for a perfect summer porch-pounder on a blazing hot day. You should be able to find a few labels at your local wine shop, generally priced from $15-$20.

Recommendations:

  • Zudugarai Antxiola Txakolina ($15)
  • Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakolina ($20)
  • Rezabal Txakoli ($20)

 

 

 

Stay Warm with these Classic Wine Movies

The weather is getting colder and more dreary, which is driving me indoors and under a comfy blanket in front of my TV. (I am so NOT a cold-weather person!). If you’re looking for an indoor activity that will keep you as warm and comforted as your glass of wine, here is a list of my favorite wine movies that are informative, influential and most of all, entertaining.

My Favorite Wine Movies:

Sour Grapes

(Netflix, Amazon Prime, iTunes, YouTube)

Sour Grapes is a crime documentary about wine fraudster Rudy Kurniawan, who scams wealthy wine collectors and experts out of millions by flooding the American wine market with fraudulent super-premium wines.

Somm

(Amazon Prime, Hulu, iTunes)

Somm spurred a series of additional movies about the lives of sommeliers. This original movie made the term “sommelier” a household name, and gave it a sexy connotation. It follows four sommeliers in their attempt to pass the prestigious Master Sommelier exam, a test with one of the lowest pass rates in the world.

Bottle Shock

(YouTube, Amazon Prime, iTunes)

Bottleshock is based on the true story of the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine tasting competition that put Napa Valley on the world stage, when California wines beat out the best French wines in a competition judged by European wine experts.

Sideways

(YouTube, iTunes, Amazon Prime, Hulu, Starz, Cinemax, Sling)

Sideways is the movie that changed the face of the California wine market, and the fate of Merlot, for decades to follow. The “Sideways Effect” has been extensively researched and studied. If you haven’t seen this pivotal movie, now is the time to watch it. It follows two middle-aged men on a week-long bachelor party trip in through Santa Barbara’s wine country.

Turf War over To-Kalon

To-Kalon (pronounced toe-kah-lon) is one of the most historic, famous and disputed names in Napa Valley history. Is it a vineyard? Is it a brand? Some of the Valley’s most prestigious personalities – Robert Mondavi and Andy Beckstoffer – have been battling each other over these questions for decades.

Why is this specific piece of land in Napa Valley’s Oakville AVA so special? Here the soils have a high portion of gravel, which makes them free-draining, forcing vines to root deeply in search of water. When vines struggle, they become healthier, more resistant to drought and disease, and produce lower yields of better quality fruit.

Some of the best, most prestigious wines in Napa Valley come from the To-Kalon vineyard, which is reflected in very high price tags. Today, there are eight owners of the parceled off vineyard – Mondavi, Opus One, MacDonald, Detert, Andy Beckstoffer, U.C. Davis, Wilsey/Traina and the Napa Valley Grape Growers. Opus One sells $300/bottle, Schrader’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon sells for $400, and MacDonald sells for $700.

In the beginning…

It all began in 1868 when Hamilton Walker Crabb purchased 240 acres of farmland in Oakville. He planted the land with a wide variety of experimental grape vines and named it Hermosa Vineyards. In 1881 he purchased an adjoining 119 acre parcel of land and renamed the business To-Kalon, meaning “the place of highest beauty” in Greek. In 1891, he expanded for a third time, adding on another 135 acres. He became the third largest winemaking in Napa at the time and garnered both domestic and international claim for his wines.

In 1899 Crabb died and his land was fragmented and sub-parcels changed hands a number of times until Robert Mondavi began purchasing plots of To-Kalon in 1966. He started with a 12-acre parcel and by 1978 was the majority owner of Crabb’s original 1881 plot. In 1988, Mondavi trademarked the name “To-Kalon” and in 1994 trademarked “To-Kalon Vineyard”. Today, the majority of the vineyard as well as the trademarks are owned by the behemoth, Constellation Brands, due to its purchase of Robert Mondavi in 2004.

The battle ensues…

The second largest holder was Beaulieu Vineyards with 89 acres. This parcel was purchased by famous Napa grapegrower, Andy Beckstoffer, in 1993 who sold grapes from this parcel to other winemakers. Beckstoffer convinced Schrader Cellars to label their wine “Beckstoffer Original To-Kalon Vineyard.” Mondavi then sued Schrader for use of the To-Kalon name.

Both Schrader and Beckstoffer filed separate counter suits on the basis that To-Kalon is a place, not a marketing concept. Beckstoffer argued that Mondavi was misleading consumers by labeling their wines “To-Kalon” when the grapes being used were not from the original Crabb vineyard.

The conclusion…

The suit was settled in 2003 under undisclosed terms, but Beckstoffer reserved the right to allow his clients to use the To-Kalon name. The result has led to labeling confusion. Wines made from Beckstoffer’s grapes using the To-Kalon label are subject to labeling laws based on geographic location, meaning 95% of the grapes in such a bottle must be from the To-Kalon vineyard.

However, since Mondavi’s claim to the name is based on a marketing trademark, it is not subject to the same rules. So Mondavi may use the To-Kalon name on any bottle it desires, regardless of where those grapes come from! Constellation’s position is that To-Kalon is not a place, regardless of the historical records that suggest otherwise.

There are two other owners of smaller parcels of Crabb’s original To-Kalon vineyard – MacDonald and Detert – highly acclaimed, family-owned wineries that are not allowed to use the To-Kalon name on their wines.

But wait, there’s more!

In 2017, Constellation started a new wine brand called To-Kalon Vineyard. They attempted to file further trademarks on the To-Kalon name, but Beckstoffer put up firm opposition in court and Constellation abandoned the effort.

MacDonald has also filed a petition to have the To-Kalon vineyard added to the National Registry of Historic Places, which is being fought by Constellation. At the same time, a suit was filed against Constellation by The Vineyard House (owned by Far Niente and Nickel and Nickel proprietor, Jeremy Nickel) claiming that Robert Mondavi’s To-Kalon trademark was obtained fraudulently and deceptively. The suit was dismissed by a federal judge, but Constellation in turn sued The Vineyard House for their use of To-Kalon on one of their wine labels.

Constellation continues to adamantly support the position that To-Kalon is a brand, not a place. While defenders of the vineyard, MacDonald and Beckstoffer, are concerned the original vineyard and its special terroir will be forgotten someday due to these trademarks being used on wines that can originate anywhere.

 

The Scandalous Wine Classifications of Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux

When you see “Grand Cru” on the label of a bottle of Saint-Émilion wine, what does that really mean? I’ll give you a hint – it’s not the same as the Cru system used in Burgundy. The classification system in Saint-Émilion can not only be confusing to consumers, but it has been fraught with controversy, scandal, legal battles, and criminal convictions!

For those unfamiliar with the nuances of this case, let’s dive a little deeper into Saint-Émilion, its wines, and its controversial classification system.

The Wines of Saint-Emilion

Bordeaux is split in two by the Gironde Estuary, which then splits into the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. To the right of the Gironde is the Right Bank and to the left of the Gironde is the Left Bank.

Saint-Émilion is located on the Right Bank of Bordeaux where clay and limestone soils are found in abundance. This soil type does a good job of retaining moisture while also draining excess water. Due to that water content, it also stays cooler, which means it is best planted with grape varieties that don’t need a ton of heat. As a result, Cabernet Sauvignon, which needs long periods of warm temperatures to ripen, doesn’t do quite as well here. Merlot, on the other hand, thrives on these cooler, wetter soils, as does Cabernet Franc.

These clay soils, along with the varietal character of Merlot, result in wines that are softer and fruitier with lower tannin and acidity than the Cabernet-driven blends of the Left Bank. They tend to be more approachable when young, although the better wines can certainly be cellared.

Saint-Émilion Classification System

So now that we’ve established that Saint-Émilion is on the Right Bank and produces softer, fruitier Merlot-driven wines, how do you know what bottle to buy when you walk into your local wine shop? Saint-Émilion’s wine council tried to help consumers with this question by establishing a classification system for wine quality.

The Saint-Émilion Classification system was established in 1955 with four increasing quality levels:

  1. Grand Cru (hundreds of estates)
  2. Grand Cru Classé (63 estates)
  3. Premiere Grand Cru Classé B (15 estates)
  4. Premiere Grand Cru Classé A (4 estates)

Quality Criteria

A number of different criteria are used to evaluate the quality of an estate (called a Chateau in Bordeaux). These criteria are then weighted and scored, with those weightings varying based on the classification level being sought. An example of some of the assessment criteria includes:

  • Sampling of an estate’s wines from the previous 10-20 vintages
  • Terroir (location, soil, geography, topography, etc.)
  • Estate reputation
  • Promotional activities including social media
  • Presence of public tasting rooms and involvement in wine tourism
  • How the wines are distributed and priced
  • Technical production of the wines for quality production

Pros and Cons

The benefits of having a classification system are primarily:

  1. To help consumers make better purchasing choices and give them confidence about the quality of the wine on which they spend their hard-earned money.
  2. To contribute to the reputation of an estate, and allow producers at the upper classification levels to charge higher prices for their wines.

However, not all classification systems are created equal, and not all meet these goals. Sometimes these systems end up creating even more confusion. For example, in Saint-Émilion, Premiere Grand Cru Classé estates are essentially the First Growths of Saint-Émilion. However, in contrast to Burgundy, which places “Grand Cru” at the top level, Saint-Émilion places “Premiere Cru” at the top level and Grand Cru as their lowest level, causing a fair amount of consumer confusion.

Also, there has been some debate as to why things like social media presence and the existence of a tasting room are used to assess the quality level of an estate’s wines, which has only led to the ongoing dispute over this classification system.

Further, unlike the Left Bank’s 1855 Classification system, which was established 150 years ago and is pretty much etched in stone, the Saint-Émilion classification was meant to re-evaluate estates every 10 years. As a result, it was updated in 1969, 1986, 1996, 2006, 2012 and 2022. However, it has been fraught with controversy and scandal for the past several decades, mainly driven by producers who have been unhappy with how they have been classified.

Let’s take a look at the timeline of controversy, where the classification system stands today, and whether consumers can actually trust this classification when buying a bottle of wine from Saint-Émilion.

Timeline of a Controversial Classification System

Sept 2006: The 2006 Saint-Émilion classification was challenged in court by four producers who had been demoted in quality level. The legal dispute claimed several members of the assessment panel had conflicts of interests (e.g. were involved in business dealings with some of the estates), and thus could not be impartial.

March 2007: A tribunal suspended the 2006 classification indefinitely due to the court case.

Nov 2007: The French supreme court overturned the suspension, reinstating the 2006 classification. However, this ruling essentially only determined that the case brought by the four estates should not void the entire classification. A hearing was still to proceed on the suit brought by the four estates.

July 2008: The court ruled that the wine tasting process used in the 2006 classification was not impartial, again invalidating the entire classification. It was determined that appealing this ruling to try to reinstate the 2006 classification would take about two years with an uncertain conclusion. Therefore, upon request by the French regulatory body for wine, INAO, the French Government used emergency powers to reinstate the classification by extending the validity of the 1996 classification. As a result, the four demoted estates that brought the suit were able to keep their classification, but other estates that had been promoted in 2006 were not. This created not just ill will with those producers, but potentially hurt them financially and damaged their reputation.

Dec 2008: The French senate allowed the total of eight estates that had been demoted or had their promotions retracted to regain their promotions.

Jan 2009: The French government constitutional council overruled the judgment to promote the eight estates and demoted them once again.

March 2009: The French Court of Appeal made a final ruling that the 2006 Saint-Émilion classification will not stand and voided it.

May 2009: A law was passed clarifying that the estates promoted to Grand Cru Classé in 2006 would be able to keep their status and back date it to the date of the classification. As a result, the status of the classified estates of 1996, plus the eight chateaux promoted in 2006, was mandated by law until 2011.

June 2011: The Saint-Émilion classification was given permission to move ahead with the 2012 evaluation. The 2012 classification was conducted differently by outsourcing tastings and inspections to independent groups (e.g., wine professionals from Burgundy, Rhône, Champagne, Loire and Provence). There was also no longer a fixed number of estates that could be classified.

January 2013: Three estates that had been demoted or not promoted in the 2012 classification filed complaints, claiming there were procedural errors in the selection process.

April 2013: Those same three estates filed a criminal complaint of ‘illegal interference’ due to members of the assessment panel also being owners of estates that benefitted from the new classification.

Dec 2015: A tribunal upheld the 2012 classification as legal. The three complaining estates appealed the ruling.

Aug 2019: The owners of Château Angélus and Château Trotte Vieille were ordered to stand trial on criminal charges of having an illegal conflict of interest in the reclassification that saw Angélus elevated to Grand Cru Classé A and Trotte Vieille retain its Grand Cru Classé B, while both owners were in positions of influence in the organization that oversaw the classification system.

Oct 2021: The owner of the very prestigious Château Angélus, was found guilty of influencing the 2012 Saint-Émilion classification to benefit wineries in which he had financial interest or acted as an advisor. He was fined €40,000. The second defendant in the case, who owned Chateau Trottevieille and was a member of the assessment panel, was acquitted.

March 2022: A Bordeaux court of appeal dismissed the civil lawsuits brought by the three estates, re-establishing the legitimacy of Saint-Émilion’s 2012 Classification.

Jan 2022: The upcoming Saint-Émilion 2022 Classification process is currently underway, but has already taken an enormous hit to its reputation and potentially to its future. Three of the four ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé A’ estates from 2012 – Châteaux Angélus, Cheval Blanc and Ausone – have all independently said that they do not want to be part of the 2022 ranking process.

June 2022: The fourth ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé A’ estate, Chateau La Gaffelière, also announced their withdrawal from the Saint-Émilion classification.

So where does that leave Saint-Émilion’s 2022 classification? Saint-Émilion’s wine council said they are proceeding with the 2022 Classification, despite the high-profile withdrawals of the region’s top four estates. The final classification is slated to be released in September 2022.

What to Buy?

So as a wine consumer, where does this leave you? Should you even still buy wines from Saint-Émilion? Can you put any faith in the wine’s classification? The short answer is yes! Regardless of the politics involved in the classification process, many Saint-Émilion wines are delicious and worth seeking out.

The wines classified as Premiere Grand Cru A and B are reliably stunning, ageworthy and of the highest quality. They are, however, very expensive. For example, a bottle of Cheval Blanc will set you back at least $500.

Although there are definitely excellent wines that are in the Grand Cru category, there is a significant difference between Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé. To achieve Grand Cru status, a vineyard just needs to be located in an area that has been classified as Grand Cru, and the producer must also meet some local rules and regulations. Over 200 vineyards are classified as Grand Cru, and estates using these vineyards are automatically granted this status without needing to apply for it.

Grand Cru Classé wines are from better vineyard sites, the estates must apply for this designation, and a committee assesses the quality of the wines via a blind tasting. In 2012, 63 estates met the established criteria for Grand Cru Classé. However, they are still going to set you back $40-$100+.

There are always exceptions to the rules and there are some excellent Grand Cru wines that meet or exceed the quality of some Grand Cru Classé wines. As with all wines, the safest option is to get to know producers and buy the ones that you’ve had a good experience with. Here are some that I have enjoyed:

  • Château Barde-Haut St.-Emilion Grand Cru ($35)
  • Chateau Troplong Mondot St.-Emilion Grand Cru ($45)
  • Clos de l’Oratoire Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé ($50)
  • Château Canon-La Gaffelière – St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé ($90)
  • Chateaux Garcia Saint-Émilion Grand Cru ($125)
  • Clos Fourtet -Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé ($125)

Wine with Mushrooms Makes A Fun-gi!

I was at my local farmer’s market this past weekend and there was a mushroom vendor selling a variety of fungi, some of which looked like they came from another planet! I simply couldn’t resist buying some. I love that rich earthy, umami character of sautéed mushrooms, especially when cooked with garlic, onions and butter – yum!

There are over 2,000 edible species of mushroom in the world, so how the heck do we even start to figure out how to pair all of this variety with wine? Luckily, there are only a small handful of mushrooms that commonly make their way onto our plates, and we can fairly easily divide these into two categories.

  1. Delicately flavored mushrooms such as lobster, enoki, maitake, oyster, and button mushrooms. These are best paired with creamy white wines, such as Chardonnay, Viognier, and white Rhone blends. They can also work well with lighter reds, especially those that have an earthy character, such as Pinot Noir. For something a little different, you can even open a bottle of Champagne for its yeasty, earthy note and acidity that contrasts with the savoriness of the mushrooms.
  2. Hearty, earthy mushrooms such as truffles, shiitake, portobello, porcini and morels. These bolder and meatier mushrooms can definitely stand up to bigger red wines. Again, look for big reds that have an earthy character, such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Bordeaux and Syrah.

So, my local mushroom vendor at the farmer’s market inspired me to make a mushroom risotto for dinner. I tend to prefer a blend of various mushrooms in my risotto that combines both delicacy and boldness. As a result, I chose shiitake mushrooms, a maitake mushroom (commonly known as Hen-of-the-Woods) and dried porcini mushrooms. As a side note, dried mushrooms reconstituted in hot broth will add a very bold pop of umami flavor!

Click here to check out my recipe for Mushroom Risotto!

As for the wine pairing, I chose a 2005 Corino Vigna Giachini Barolo from Piedmonte, Italy that has been maturing quite nicely in my cellar for more than a decade. It could have remained in the cellar for a few more decades, but I knew it was going to be perfect with this dish, so Carpe Diem! I was not disappointed.

This wine had that telltale pale, brick red color of Barolo with pronounced aromas of earth, dried leaves, roses, sour cherry, smoke and leather. Its high acidity and high tannins not only allowed it to age so well, but provided brilliant structure to the fruit. The finish went on and on, both lingering and evolving on the palate. The wine’s earthiness perfectly complimented the savory mushrooms, while its high acidity cut through the creaminess of the risotto. Barolo and mushroom risotto is a match made in gastronomic heaven!

RECIPE: Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients

  • 1 ounce package of dried porcini mushrooms
  • 1/2 stick unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 chopped onions
  • 1lb of chopped mushrooms of your choice (e.g., shitake, portabello, crimini)
  • 6 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tablespoon truffle oil (optional)
  • 2 cups Arborio rice
  • 1 cup dry white wine (e.g., Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio)
  • 9oz package of frozen peas, thawed
  • 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
  • Salt and pepper
  1. Pour the broth into a medium saucepan. Add porcini mushrooms to the broth and bring to a simmer for about 5 minutes until mushrooms are reconstituted. Keep the broth warm over very low heat.

    Dried porcini mushrooms in broth

  2. Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 8 minutes.

    Saute onions in butter and olive oil

  3. With a slotted spoon, removed the porcini mushrooms from the broth to a cutting board and chop them.
  4. Add all of the mushrooms and garlic to the saucepan with the onions. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté for about 5 minutes until the mushrooms are tender.

    Use any variety or combination of mushrooms that you’d prefer

     

     

    Saute mushrooms and garlic with onions

  5. Add the truffle oil (optional)

    Add an optional drizzle of truffle oil for a stronger umami flavor

  6. Stir in the rice and let it toast for about 2 minutes.

    Toast the rice

  7. Add the wine and stir frequently for about 2 minutes until the liquid is absorbed.

    Add any dry white wine that you prefer. If drinking red with your risotto, just re-cork the bottle, store it in the fridge, and enjoy a glass of white tomorrow!

  8. Being sure to keep the heat at medium-low so the broth doesn’t cook off too quickly, add 1 cup of hot broth to the rice until the liquid is absorbed (about 3 minutes), stirring often. Repeat this process, adding 1 cup of broth at a time, until all of the broth is used. The entire process should take up to 30 minutes. Do not walk away from the stove – you must stir often so the rice doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.

9. Stir in the peas and the Parmigiano. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.